My Nepenthe by Romney Steele
Big Sur never seems to catch a break from natural disasters. Still recovering from the larger-than-usual fire of last fall, they were recently hit with storms that ravaged the land, damaging roads and Pfeiffer Canyon Bridge. The bridge will take months to repair, leaving residents stranded and businesses shut off from traffic. Nepenthe restaurant is one of those businesses, so I took some time to reread My Nepenthe, which I received as a gift from my sister the year it was written.
The book is beautifully designed, with quality graphics and photography. It has enough of a storyline to qualify as a memoir/biography but includes many recipes from the restaurant, as well. For those not familiar, Nepenthe is a family-owned venue in Big Sur with amazing ocean views and world-famous food. The story begins with the author Romney Steele‘s family history before Nepenthe opened. We get to see how this Italian family celebrated traditions with food and how food equaled love, camaraderie and celebration. The first recipes presented in the book come from Romney’s grandma Lolli.
Nepenthe, which opened in 1949, is an iconic venue in an idyllic setting with Bohemian roots. The book reveals how the culture of the family’s Italian heritage, along with then-current Bohemian culture of artists and intellectuals shaped the character of Nepenthe. All of this influenced the food and atmosphere of the venue. Her grandparents believed that being of service is a privilege. They believe that treating guests and employees like family is what made the place successful. It was truly a community with long tables, long drink pours and long conversations. Dinners would often run into the night.
The restaurant business is tough, especially during off-season. The venue was often at the mercy of the weather. Reading this, you realize that this has not changed. To remain here, you must love the place. Mother nature will test that love.
Tidbits and tails of famous people visiting are splattered throughout the book. The Halloween Bal Marque started as an elaborate social event and evolved into the charity affair that it is today.
Nepenthe opened a few years after Alice Waters pioneered the local organic food movement, and Nepenthe was among the first to do organic and local in Monterey County. Some of the original recipes are served at today’s venue (Lolli’s Roast Chicken, Chopped Salad, etc).
The modern version of the restaurant introduced a wine program and is less communal than the original version. But they are still influenced by their roots. Big Sur and Nepenthe continue to be plagued by fires on an almost annual basis. In the past, when the troublesome fires occurred, Nepenthe always stayed open to feed the firefighters and received an “outpouring of concern worldwide.” Reminiscent of the early days when Lolli insisted on feeding the starving artists who would venture through the area.
The book ends with a shot out to the Hispanic community, saying they add depth to the venue and are extended family. Many stay in the industry and move up the career ladder or start their own businesses. It’s nice to see that openness and caring are still a part of the Nepenthe tradition. Though it seems corny to make such a statement, it is too bad that the current environment makes this type of sentiment all too rare. Our county is unique and I’m glad for the history that helped make us that way.